I had time available in my schedule to go on a road trip to explore and hike. In addition, I had an available and willing travel companion. My daughter, Maggie, was home from college and waiting to start a job. We called up some friends of ours in Missouri and asked them if we could stop by for a visit while we’re on our road trip. Luckily for us, they not only wanted us to stop by but they also requested us to stay with them for a couple of days. Who could refuse such an offer? We decided to set the Lake of the Ozarks as our destination, and not just a waypoint like we originally thought. Then, we added stops in St. Louis, Hannibal and Springfield to make it a full experience.
Our friends live right in the middle of the Lake of the Ozarks. We talked about hiking in the area and they sent a couple of recommendations, which looked like fantastic places to explore. Then, I mapped out a route and checked into other points of interest, both on the way out and coming home. We would be passing close to places I had always wanted to visit. Our trip was really entertaining and full of unique experiences. If you find yourself near these destinations, I encourage you to take a detour and check them out.
Meet Me in St. Louis
We left on a Tuesday night and drove a couple of hours to stop in Effingham, IL. We got up the next morning and drove an hour and a half to St. Louis, MO. We stopped to experience The Gateway to the West and travel to the top of the Gateway Arch. At 630′, it is the world’s tallest arch and the tallest monument in the western hemisphere. I learned the Arch was built as a memorial to Thomas Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase and the opening of the American West.
The ride to the top of the arch is a unique experience. You are placed in one of a series of pods that fit 3-4 people, depending on the size of the people. If you are claustrophobic, beware! It is tight quarters and you will be in that space for 10 minutes of ride time. It is totally worth the experience but I want you prepared. The view from the top is phenomenal. The sights include the Mississippi River, the city skyline, Busch Stadium, and the Old Courthouse. The grounds around the arch are well-kept and have the potential to enjoy a nice picnic lunch.
Instead, we headed downtown to Sauce on the Side for lunch. I ordered The Duke and loved it! The food was outstanding! They offer a fabulous variety of fillings for made-to-order calzones with craft sodas to wash it down. Best calzone I’ve ever eaten. There is plenty of seating inside and out on the patio. After lunch, we walked over to the St. Louis Federal Reserve. They have a cool, interactive museum to educate people on money. It was a fun, free way to spend an hour and learn a couple of things at the same time. We did not have the time, but the nightlife and music in St. Louis looked enticing. Maybe next time.
A 3-hour drive west of St. Louis, we arrived in Camdenton, MO. We were right in the midst of the Lakes of the Ozarks, which is a large stretch of man-made lakes east of the Ozark Mountains in Missouri. We spent the next three days exploring the trails around the lakes, fishing, enjoying the sights and even visiting the Bagnell Dam, which created this series of lakes.
Ha Ha Tonka
Our first day exploring centered on Ha Ha Tonka State Park. The park originally belonged to a Kansas City business owner named Robert Snyder. He began building a castle on these grounds as a summer home in the early 1900s. The castle was completed by his sons in the ’20s and used for summer getaways. Unfortunately, the structure burned down in the ’40s and the remains were left abandoned. The state eventually acquired the property and turned the grounds into fantastic hiking, fishing and boating area. The castle ruins sit atop a hill for viewing but not exploration purposes.
The park has approximately 15 miles of hiking trails. The trails cut through woods and across meadows and lead to natural springs, caves, natural bridges and beautiful overlooks of the Lake. It is a fantastic place to explore. We spent a whole day hiking and exploring the grounds. It was a perfect way for me to break in my new Roamm day pack and trekking poles (affiliate links). The pack is a great size when you are out hiking most of the day. It comfortably fits my Platypus hydration pack plus food and trail essentials. If you are looking for some new gear, I highly recommend these products. We hiked many enjoyable miles together this past year.
The following day, we were back fishing on the lake, which was fun, even though we did not have too many hits. We took a walk down to the natural spring (pictured below, middle). Plenty of ducks and fish plus a muskrat to make it more interesting. We were chased out of the park a bit later by an approaching thunderstorm. No worries. The diversion gave us an opportunity to grab a coffee at The Funky Buffalo and ice cream at Scoops. I enjoyed both stops immensely.
Lake of the Ozarks State Park
We next traveled north a few miles to Lake of the Ozarks State Park to hike the Honey Trail. We got off the highway and headed to the lake. In a mile or so, the road turned to gravel and we winded our way into the woods. We traveled on gravel for several miles and even forded a few shallow streams crossing the road. There were very few people. Just after we passed a small stream, we found the trailhead and parked. We got all of our gear together. Our plan was to hike the 2.5 mile South Loop, take a break, and complete the 4.25 mile North Loop up by the lake.
We began on the South Loop. The trail heads out along the stream bank amidst more oak trees than I have seen on a hike. It was a beautiful time of the year to be visiting. Small wildflowers broke the ground in various spots and all the vegetation was green and well-hydrated. We had a great hike going, one of the best ones in recent memory. Great company and scenic views, including deer, turtle, and various insects.
Then, my daughter realized we hit a nest of ticks. She noticed one on my leg. We stopped. There wasn’t one on my leg. There were tens of them on each of us. We did the best we could to remove as many ticks as possible, but there were too many. The trailhead was less than a mile away so we hustled back to the car, removing our socks and trail shoes and as many ticks as we could find. Moles and ticks can look similar. Anyway, this was the end of our hiking for the day. We will have to tackle the North Loop a different time and wear more protective clothing and bug spray with DEET like I took on our Rocky Mountain road trip. Lesson learned.
Hannibal and Springfield
I am a big fan of Mark Twain and Abraham Lincoln. Our drive home became an opportunity to learn more about these famous Americans. We adjusted our route home to go through Hannibal, MO and Springfield, IL. Our first stop was in Hannibal to visit the Twain Boyhood Home and Museum. The town is full of period homes including Twain’s, the real Huckleberry Finn’s and Becky Thatcher’s. The first book I recall picking up for pleasure reading was Tom Sawyer. That left an indelible mark in my memories and painting the fence with Maggie is a new memory to add. You can see plenty in a couple of hours, including panoramic views of the Mississippi River. Fun fact: You may know that Twain was a riverboat pilot before the war. But, did you know his salary in today’s dollars would likely be $75K per year or more?
Next, we stopped at Abraham Lincoln’s Home. Lincoln bought the property when he married Mary Todd. It was the only home Lincoln ever owned and served as his base through his time in Congress through the Presidency until his assassination. His son, Robert Todd Lincoln, donated the home to the State of Illinois in the 1870s with two conditions: 1) the house is always properly maintained, and 2) there is never to be an admission charge. That agreement holds to the present time. The tour is free and takes about 20 minutes to complete. The entire neighborhood is owned by the National Park System and all buildings are maintained as they looked in Lincoln’s time. Enjoy a leisurely stroll around the neighborhood and take a step back in time.
Reflections
An interesting thing struck me as we toured the homesteads of Twain and Lincoln. Lincoln began his rise to prominence when he moved to Springfield in 1836, one year after Sam Clemens was born in Hannibal. Two of the most influential people during the 19th century rose from very humble beginnings and lived an influential part of their lives a mere 100 miles without knowing much (or anything) about the other. There is one interesting theory connecting the two men. Several years before Twain was born, Lincoln floated down the Mississippi past Hannibal on a raft bound for New Orleans. Could that have influenced the story of Huck Finn? Likely not, but we will never know.
After we finished in Springfield, we headed home to Cincinnati. The trip was a tremendous success, despite the small inconvenience caused by the ticks. We explored cool tourist areas, submersed ourselves in biographical history, experienced nature in the Lake of the Ozarks and visited with our friends. I will long remember the sights and the adventures of our trip, especially the time I was able to share and enjoy with my travel partner.